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Harry Watson's avatar

As ever, Marianne, another great piece! I'm more of an urban flâneur these days, but I recognise so much of what you write. And I still occasionally head west from my hometown and stroll the Northumbrian countryside. Yes, I encounter livestock along the way, and your advice about not getting between cows and their calves is excellent. My encounter with a concerned mother is not something I would wish to repeat, while on another occasion, crossing the field of young bullocks, also meant a quickening of my pace.

Nature has reclaimed many of the Northeast's once-industrial areas. Once, they would have been a tumult of noise. The clump of boots and horse hooves. The shouts of men and the clank of wheels. The shrill of hooters and whistles. Now there is only the tinkling of water, the singing of birds, the buzz of insects and the breeze through the leaves of trees. Nature has reclaimed its own. In my 'Meanders', I've written about exploring one or two of those. Walking along tree-lined wagonways then coming upon concrete steps that lead nowhere where once they would have echoed to the sound of pit boots as they led into a long vanished drift mine, or the remnants of buildings that were housing for pit ponies.

I fondly remember being a youngster on family holidays spent in the Lake District. Our residence was a rented caravan with days spent walking the fells. As a teenager, I would go orienteering in Yorkshire with my soldier brother-in-law, and later, when I had children of my own, we ventured as a family to the Peak District, the Lake District or Scotland. And you're right about the weather not deterring us. On one holiday on the Isle of Arran, it poured down every single day, yet all enjoyed it - even the long, damp trek up Goat Fell. Your Alfred Wainwright quote of weather and clothing is spot on, but here's another from the writings of that intrepid walker who, by all accounts, would sing as he walked. A wide variety from the Volga Boatman for uphill stretches to marching songs towards the end of a walk. As someone who now walks alone, it's something I too find myself doing on occasion (when strolling in the countryside, I should add, not when meandering in towns or cities - that just draws awkward looks from others)

"The precious moments of life are too rare, too valuable to be forgotten when they have passed; we should hoard them as a miser hoards his gold, and bring them to light and rejoice over them often. We should all of us have a treasury of happy memories to sustain us when life is unbearably cruel, to brighten the gloom a little, to be stars shining through the darkness."

Have a wonderful week!

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

You have such a lovely way with words Harry. This is beautiful.

I haven't yet explored the east side of England, but it's definitely on my list, especially the Northumbrian countryside. It makes my heart happy to hear that nature has reclaimed many of the once-industrial areas. Your words paint quite the picture of what it's like now.

The Alfred Wainwright quote you shared is such a good reminder and very timely. It's not one I've heard before, but I will be putting it up somewhere where I can read it often.

Thank you for reading and for sharing your thoughts and memories. I look forward to them every week.

Have a wonderful week as well! 😊

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Harry Watson's avatar

Thank you Marianne and you are now part of my Sunday breakfast ritual as I usually read your piece while consuming whatever I've chosen to start the day.

I know I'm biased but there aren't too many places in the UK that better Northumberland for the beauty of its countryside or coast. You may be aware that Robson Green, the actor hosts a documentary series that shows off well the Northumbrian beauty. I guess it's still on iPlayer if you fancy dipping in.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

😊 I love that.

I will definitely check out Robson Green's Weekend Escape. Thanks for the tip. I very much enjoy shows like this.

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Rivets's avatar

The great advantage of the NE, other than it being wonderful, is the lack of people. Don't publicise it too widely!

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Harry Watson's avatar

Indeed, and those you do come across are canny.... 😉

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John Wright's avatar

When I was 17 (back in the 1970s), I caught the coach to the Lakes with two friends. We walked for over a week, stopping at youth hostels. No credit cards. No phones. My mum trusted my friends and didn’t worry once. My first time there and I thought it was like something out of The Hobbit.

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Harry Watson's avatar

Simpler days, John, simpler days ...

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Peter Stokes's avatar

Cows are only a problem when their calves are around, otherwise they’re not bothered with you. More of a potential threat, I’ve found, are the herds of young bullocks. Like bored teenage boys anywhere they want to follow you around, sometimes crossing the field at a trot to reach you - their intentions are harmless, but half a ton of beef on the hoof can do a lot of unintentional damage!!

The trick to fending them off is make yourself look as big as possible, arms wide and waving, and yell at them (politely of course); they’ll shy away, might still follow you but keep their distance. Repeat until they get bored or you’re out of their field.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Great tips. I think that's where trekking poles come in handy, they help make you look even bigger when needed.

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Rob Rough's avatar

Excellent piece. You have managed to touch on all the key points. In Scotland there is a “right to roam” (and camp) everywhere apart from the obvious exceptions such as private gardens etc. There were moves to introduce this in England and Wales but I think the Labour Govt has other priorities at the moment. A good place to start would be woodland, lake shores and river banks. I’m definitely in favour, but in lowland areas having public footpaths can arguably make it easier to plan walks in England and Wales. In Scotland you can theoretically walk anywhere but you’re never quite sure whether you’ll encounter a locked gate or a fence. With public footpaths you know for certain that you’ll be able to get through.

Ireland, by the way, has some great walking country but there are few designated footpaths, and certainly no right to roam - which is a shame.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Thank you Rob. 😊

I appreciate you sharing these regional nuances and will be curious to see if England and Wales eventually expand access to woodlands and waterways as you mentioned. Thanks for adding to the conversation!

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Claudia's avatar

I was about to make a comment about the 'right to roam' policy, which was introduced by the Scottish government some years ago. It might seem that we're all part of 'Britain' but there are considerable differences. It'd be nice to show you a bit of Scotland - if you can make it, let me know and I'll arrange a few things.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

I'll admit, I'm not as experienced when it comes to Scotland, so I welcome the additional insights, corrections, and guidance on the differences. 😊

Thank you for the invite. I would love that.

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Claudia's avatar

Great. It's a deal!

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Claudia's avatar

(I noticed that you haven't mentioned the midgies, if you don't, then I won't either.)

:-)

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Haha! Midgies are tiny terrors that I have definitely encountered a few times, especially on my handful of trips to Scotland. I figured I needed more than just a mention of them, so will save them for a future article. I welcome your thoughts and ideas on what I should share. 😊

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Claudia's avatar

Ok. I've got an interesting snippet about that - I can email you about this rather than posting it openly? Do you want to drop me a line, so that I can respond?

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Rob Rough's avatar

Okay I won’t mention the fact that I had to wear a muslin bag over my head when camping in the Highlands as a teenager :)

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Rivets's avatar

My father used to wear a nylon mesh shopping bag. The midges loved him.

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Linda Slow Growing in Scotland's avatar

As others have said, in Scotland we've had the right to responsible public access well before the rest of the UK. I remember being shocked when I walked the St Cuthbert's Way pilgrim route from Melrose in the Scottish Borders to Lindisfarne (Holy Island) in Northumberland that as soon as we had crossed the border into England there were "no trespassing" signs everywhere.

That's another facet of walking in the UK - the ancient pilgrim ways that have been revived. You can walk many of them as we did, with accommodation pre-booked in lovely B&Bs, pubs with rooms, cosy small hotels, and heavy bags transported between stops, route maps provided. We did ours through the wonderful Scottish company Absolute Escapes, who arrange walks (not just pilgrim walks) in the whole of the UK https://www.absoluteescapes.com/

Not sure I agree with the previous poster who said cows are only dangerous if they have calves. There have been several fatalities caused by trampling cows without calves. I personally will take any detour possible to avoid going through a field with cows, bullocks and of course bulls!

But I do agree that you need to come to Scotland, so do get in touch if you're heading up here and I can give you some suggestions.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Thank you for the Absolute Escapes link. I'll check them out.

Yes, next time we head to Scotland, I'll reach out. I would love to get your suggestions. I've been to the Isle of Arran a few times (which I absolutely love), Edinburgh (only for a weekend, but need to go back and see it properly), and then up to Shetland, which is one of my all time favorite places.

There's so much more of Scotland I want to see. 😊

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Fi Cooper's avatar

Lovely that you mention watching the weather move across the landscape, I've watched storms roll in over the downs while up on The Ridgeway, you can sort of prepare mentally ( and waterproofly) for the onslaught 😆. We're very lucky to live fairly near to this national trail, and there's nothing like walk up the hill, on a blustery day, to the White Horse for a good head-clearer.

Cows are scary but being FOLLOWED by about 100 sheep* while walking in Hampshire the other week was just *really weird* (they had paid us no mind on our way through at the start of the walk!)

*It felt like 100 🐑

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

How lucky you are to live to close to such a beautiful part of the country. I can imagine how amazing that would be to walk up the hill on a blustery day. What do they say, blows the cobwebs away? 😊

Oh goodness! That would be weird being followed by so many sheep. That would freak me out a bit.

Thanks for sharing!

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Cecilia Peartree's avatar

We used to find cows would always follow a dog if you happened to have one with you. The stats you quote are quite alarming.

I recommend the Fife Coastal Path for relatively easy walking (mostly - apart from the Chain Walk), and lots of interesting cafes to pause at.

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Ann Williams's avatar

They say if you have a dog and a cow starts to chase the dog you should drop the lead (leash) and let the dog run away, because the dog will almost always outrun the cow and the cow will be too distracted to run after you.

It should go without saying that if you’re walking with a dog in a field with livestock you should have the dog on a lead to begin with. A farmer is within his rights to shoot a dog that interferes with (or “worries”) his livestock.

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Cecilia Peartree's avatar

Thanks, very good advice. Fortunately I haven’t had a dog for years to try it out on. I was thinking back to a walk we used to do as a family when I was a child, and we never seemed to know whether there were going to be cows or not until we found they were in a field we had to cross!

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Great insight. We don't have a dog, but I have noticed that cows do seem to be extra curious/cautious when there are dogs about.

I hadn't heard of the Fife Coast Path, but just took a peek and it looks like it's a gorgeous walk in Scotland. I'll definitely look more into that. Thank you for the recommendation. 😊

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Db's avatar

Great post as usual M. Ever thought of getting them published ? An Americans guide to the UK ? Just a small comment . Stinging nettles always grow near dock leaves which you rub on the sting and it's gone . Nature is just so amazing

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Thank you Db. 😊

I am considering it. I've published a few fun fact books in the past, but this newsletter is slightly different.

This newsletter began as a personal experiment—a creative outlet to document my UK observations before they fade from memory. But it's evolved into something more: a way to share moments of joy and cultural discovery during these challenging times, especially given the current climate in the US. Writing these pieces has become my small act of adding light to the world, one cultural observation at a time.

I think I had heard something about dock leaves being the "antidote" to the stinging nettles. I love that they always grow near the stinging nettles. I think you've said it perfectly. Nature truly is amazing.

Thank you for reading and for your comments. You've become one of the familiar "faces" around here and I look forward to hearing your thoughts each week.

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Phil Lewis's avatar

You seem to have overlooked the Wales Coast Path, which is now complete at 870 miles. It links to the Offa's Dyke path, which adds 177 miles to complete the tour of Wales. I was chased by a group of cows once, realising I couldn't out run them, I quickly climbed up a tree. They all gathered round and stared up at me. Fortunately, a friend came along and chased them away, needless to say it's not an experience I enjoyed.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Ah the Wales Coast Path is on my list. We will do a portion of the Offa Dyke path as part of the Glyndŵr's Way.

Your cow experience sounds scary. I always seem surprised at how fast cows can run, but they can really cover a lot of ground quickly when they want to.

Thanks for reading and for sharing! 😊

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Bren's avatar

Nobody warns you about the dangers of sheep!

More than once - possibly into double figures - we've been climbing over a stile and all the sheep come over for a nosey. They are packed so closely together that it's hard to find somewhere to place your foot as you don't want to hurt them. Just as you think you've got it sorted, one of them moves and you end up flat on your back with an audience of sheep. Every time!

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Great point!

For the most part, sheep have run from us, but it wasn't until this last weekend where we came across an especially curious and nosey herd of sheep that came running towards us. Not sure if they thought we were the farmer with food, but thankfully they dispersed quickly once they learned we didn't have anything for them.

Thanks for reading and for sharing. 😊

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Rivets's avatar

My son was chased nearly over a cliff by a flock of sheep.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

That’s scary! 😳

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John the Lotus's avatar

Another zinger from you, Marianne. The British landscape and climate are indeed unique and unpredictable. So a British joke goes:

Q: How do you know it's summer in Britain?

A: In the summer the rain is warmer.

As a fully paid-up member of the fraternity, I can confirm that walking and mountaineering in Britain are great, and you have captured many of the essential elements of that. (I won't say all the elements, because to give Americans too much credit for understanding us would be a very un-British thing to do. 😄)

By world standards British hills and mountains are tiddlers, but they should not be underestimated. In fact, it's precisely that underestimation which leads to more accidents, medical incidents and fatalities than there should be.

In particular, hikers and mountaineers in Britain are at risk from exposure and hypothermia. Britain's combination of a wet climate, highly changeable weather and strong, sometimes ferocious, Atlantic winds (the wind-chill factor) means that hypothermia is quite common among outdoors people here.

For your interest, here's a video about Britain's worst-ever mountaineering disaster, which took place in the Scottish Cairngorms in the winter of 1971.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7HQ9vRKN5Es&pp=ygUeQnJpdGFpbidzIHdvcnN0IG1vdW50YWluZWVyaW5n

(PS: It's a zinger, not a banger, because in Britain a banger is a sausage. The differences never end ...)

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

Thank you John. Loved the British joke/truth. Thank you for sharing. 😊

I would agree with you that the British mountains should not be underestimated. My neighbor used to work with mountain rescue and would share horror stories about folks who had gone out unprepared and totally underestimating the hills/mountains.

A few years back, my partner showed me the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel, which was used as a base near the foot of Snowden where Hillary and Tenzing trained before summiting Everest. I think it was then that I realized that if you were training for Everest in these mountains, then that said a lot about what was involved.

Thanks for sharing that video about the Cairngorms disaster. I found it very interesting and quite sad - those kinds of cautionary tales are important reminders for all of us who love the mountains.

I've made a note about the zinger vs banger. I appreciate the translation. Every day is a school day as they say. 😊

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Daryl Cowan's avatar

Wonderful - as ever.

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Laura_H's avatar

I've done a couple of hikes on Lesvos, Greece in the last couple of days. We are so lucky to have O.S. Maps in UK. The level of detail we can get from them is fantastic. Here we're using a combination of an outdated walk book and some apps.

There are beautiful ancient paths (kalderimi) between villages. As they aren't used often now they are often thick with grass, bushes and all manner of spiky plants. At worst, a local farmer will block them with tree cuttings to keep sheep from escaping which means either finding a way through, over or round (sneaking through olive groves with greek phrase book at the ready "I'm sorry", "I don't understand"!).

I've walked in all kinds of weather at home in the UK. It makes us stronger from having to carry all the extra supplies. Sun lotion. Rain coat. Extra base layer. Spare socks 🤣 Once in North Wales I had to take off some layers to cool down and apply some sun lotion and within 10 minutes everything was back in and I was being battered by hail stones!

A few years ago I went on a walk with a guide and the weather was so awful he talked about potentially having to rope us all together at the top. It rained constantly, the wind was relentless (we had to have 3 points of contact with the path at all times in the way up) and I didn't enjoy a single minute of the walk. But, I look back on it now as a point of reference when I need evidence of my own resilience on tough hikes.

I much prefer an ambling hike in the spring sun, upright and chatting with friends and enjoying the site of lambs playing.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

I can completely relate to your OS Maps appreciation! After experiencing the UK's detailed mapping system, hiking elsewhere feels like navigating with half a map.

Those ancient kalderimi paths sound wonderful despite the challenges, and I love your prepared Greek phrases for unexpected olive grove detours!

Your weather stories made me smile. I can totally relate. That rapid transition from sunscreen to hailstones in Wales is exactly why my backpack is always twice as heavy here! Those tough hikes do become strange badges of honor, don't they? Not enjoyable during, but powerful memories after.

I'm with you on preferring those gentle spring walks with friends. 😊 There's something special about actually being able to look up and around rather than just watching your footing or battling the elements!

Have an amazing time Greece!

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Martin Hayman's avatar

You're making me fall in love with my own country, Marianne

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

That is probably one of the kindest compliments I could receive. Thank you and so happy to hear that. 😊

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Cakes We Like's avatar

A long time (over 30 years) ago I was hiking across the Peak District with an ex-boyfriend heading towards Edale. We were just approaching the top of Jacobs Ladder when the wind picked up and the rain started coming down horizontally. We were debating abandoning the adventure and turning back towards the nearest village when we encountered a group of Welsh Army Cadets who were out on a moorland hike. They were being blown across a field with a line of sheep parading behind them, something my companion and I found hilarious at the time. We ended up huddling together and sharing out some snacks and a quick consultation on the merits of turning back vs continuing onwards. The result of the consultation being the decision that we should each press on, us because Edale was a short 30 minute walk away, them because their Commanding Officer radioed that he would meet them in the next village and transport them out of there. So my companion and I ended up walking down Jacobs Ladder in gale force winds and torrential rain before spending a very soggy night in a tent in Edale. The local pub made up for it though.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

What a fantastic story. Sounds like quite the trek. Happy to hear the local pub made up for it. 😊

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Rivets's avatar

I had always wondered why some gate locks had raised handles on them. Now I know.

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Julian Davies's avatar

We were once chased by piglets for several hundred yards through a woodland path, scared that their massive parents might be behind them in protective mode. Both hilarious and terrifying at the same time. I'm perfectly happy with bullocks though.

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Marianne Jennings's avatar

That is both hilarious and frightening. Yeah I’ve heard you never want to mess with an adult pig.

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